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#1 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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3D growth... (and I dont mean poser)
Hey
Umm I want to try something, but I need to know something first... which works better for you people the red-blue 3D glasses or the eye-cross style of 3D? Not everyone has glasses, but then not everyone can do the eye-crosses either. just curious because it dictates how I shoot things, and which camera I use. gee... what could I possibly have planned...... |
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#2 |
I draw 'em tall!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,865
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cross eye, I cant stand red/blue.
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#3 |
Guest
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#4 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Cross Eye. Unless somebody knows where I can buy Red/Blue glasses...
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#5 |
Frequent Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Long Beach CA
Posts: 346
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#6 |
Purveyor of Porn
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 7,071
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There's a few movies out there that come with them. Spy Kids 3, Nightmare on Elm Street multipack, etc.
Having said that, red/blue 3D sucks. Those gray polarized 3D glasses like you see in some 3D motion theater rides (Terminator 3D at Universal Studios, for instance) are the best. However, they're even harder to come by, so your best bet is probably the eye-cross thing.
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#7 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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OK Cross eye it is...
this should be an interesting project.... lots of math. |
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#8 |
Process Disciple
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,505
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I pick red/blue, because I can't cross my eyes. Believe me, I've tried.
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#9 |
Process Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,908
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I, too, cannot cross my eyes, but this "cross-eyed thing" is easy when you get the general notion behind it.
Try this as an exercise. Get a pencil, pen (or otherwise long thin object) and hold it in front of you. However, don't look at the pencil -- look /past/ the pencil, but keep the pencil in view. You'll notice that the pencil has split into two. Now focus on the pencil. The background will split into two. Now focus back on the background. The pencil will split back into two. Now get two pencils and hold them side by side (left and right). Focus on the background until both pencils meet in the middle creating a third pencil. This is the general concept. Stereograms operate under that same principle. If you look at the design of all stereograms, you'll notice that it's a tiled texture, with squares that repeat over and over again from left to right, top to bottom, and that each tile, while mostly similar, will be somewhat different. This is the 3D image. Now, doing the same thing you did with your pencils, cause the repeating squares to come together (as with the two pencils), pushing two of the squares into a single third square. Keep your eyes like that until you'll see something pop out. Personally, I don't like stereograms because they only work if you concentrate and you don't get color. It's 3D, yes, but the entire object is in the same texture as the stereogram, so using it for things like humans (or similar) might not be the best idea. Of course, that's my opinion. :-) |
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#10 | |
I draw 'em tall!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,865
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Quote:
I believe Xil is talking about stereoscopic images like the one I'm attaching below. 2 normal photographs side-by-side, each with a slightly different angle. When you cross your eyes, a 3rd image appears between the two, and is in perfect 3D! The effect is pretty damned good. This image is from http://www.stereoscopy.com/gallery/index.html , They've got quite a few images there, check em out. I always seem to get better results from the "parallel viewing" images than the cross-eye there. The cross-eye images there always give me a bit of shimmering, but the parallel are always rock solid for me. But maybe that's just me.
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deviantart.com/resiz3d Last edited by resiz3d; 08-07-2007 at 11:07 AM. |
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#11 |
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 408
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They work somewhat like a Magic Eye right? They do give a pretty nice finished product.
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#12 |
Frequent Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 147
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Bah. Now you got me thinking of the math involved in scaling it. Here is what I could come up with: (I'm just making this up as I go, I don't actually know much about 3D photography.)
Take the average distance between human irises (mine are about 2.25" apart), that's the offset distance of the cameras when picturing a normal sized human being. From there, you can work with percentages. To make your subjects 2x size, make the offset 50%. To make them half size, the offset needs to be 200%. Fish-eye lenses may be necessary for close-in pov shots. Of course, this would be very hard to do with physical cameras, since the body of the cameras would make it hard to get small offsets. I might play around with poser though and test out this theory. Anyway, good luck with this project. Looks like it's gonna be badass. ![]() |
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